Crepes. The world loves these elegant “pancakes” that can be sweet or savory, street food, gourmet dining, or simply home-made.
According to Pamela Vachon in Salon, “nearly every culture on Earth lays claim to some kind of pancake made from a liquid batter on a hot, flat surface.”
The basic ingredients are flour, eggs, milk, salt, and butter. The batter is thin; the result is a more delicate pancake. The world developed many creative uses for crepes like French crêpes sucrêes (sweet) and crêpes salées (savory). Mexicans eat enchiladas, Jewish Ashkenazim love blintzes, and Chinese chow down on jianbing.
Where did it begin? There are almost as many stories as types of crepes.
The origin of crepes is shrouded in legend. Some food historians believe it hailed from the ancient Celts, as early as 1200 BCE or 3,200 years ago. The Celts were a collection of tribes that shared a similar language, religion, and culture. They migrated throughout Europe, contemporaries of Ancient Greece and Rome. Their crepes were called galettes.
Another legend goes back to the year 472. French Catholics traveled to Rome to celebrate Candlemas, a feast day representing renewal, family life, and hope for future happiness. Pope Gelasius II (see below) offered the pilgrims “sacramental bread.” It eventually evolved into crepes and a celebration on February 2 – Le Jour des Crepes – the day of crepes. “Now,” Vachon asserted, “Le Jour des Crepes and Candlemas are synonymous in France and Belgium.”
Compliments of Wikimedia Commons
The feast celebrates the transition from winter to spring; the crepe shape symbolizes the sun and the circle of life. A host of superstitions promise good luck and happiness, like holding a gold coin or ring in the left hand while flipping a crepe with the right hand; cooking a crepe with a gold coin on top; or taking the first crepe and hiding it in a drawer.
Consider the “happy accident” tale about Brittany, France during the Middle Ages. One day a peasant spilled buckwheat porridge on a flat cooking stone. It turned into a thin pancake. Not wanting to waste food, she tasted it. Yum.
The Bretons eventually brought their recipe to Paris where the crepe became an iconic food in French cuisine. Wheat flour was used instead of buckwheat.
The Bretons still use buckwheat flour for their crepes, although most are savory.
Then there was Henri Carpentier. In 1895, the 14-year old followed his uncle, the famous Chef Escoffier, to work in the Café De Paris in Monte Carlo. One evening the Prince of Wales arrived – Edward VII, the future King of England (see below) – and requested a crepe for dessert. Henri devised a warm sauce of sugar, orange juice, butter, and the orange-flavored liquor, Grand Marnier.
Compliments of W&D Downey, Wikimedia Commons
Henri later wrote in his autobiography:
The cordials in the dish [accidently] caught fire. I thought it was ruined. The Prince and his friends were waiting. How could I begin all over? I tasted it. It was, I thought, the most delicious medley of sweet flavors I had ever tasted . . . I told him it was to be called Crêpes Princess. ‘Will you,’ said His Majesty, ‘change Crêpes Princess to Crêpes Suzette?’ [the beautiful French girl who was dining with him] Thus was born and baptized this confection, one taste of which, I really believe, would reform a cannibal into a civilized gentleman.”
Barring cannibals and gentlemen, the story has been disputed. Did Henri use another brandy, like cognac, curaçao or a medley? Was Suzette an actress, lover, or the daughter of a friend?
Who cares? We got Crêpes Suzette Flambé and a tasty legend.
These days Crêpes Suzette Flambé is one of the most popular desserts in the world, an iconic sweet in French cuisine.
By the nineteenth century, sweet crepes were popular with the wealthy French bourgeoisie. Eventually, because the ingredients were cheap and available, it became a staple in French street food. Creperies or crepe stands became common, selling both sweet and savory types.
Today there are variations around the world. In Japan, they’re often called Harajuku crêpes – popular street food filled with everything from fresh fruit and ice cream to savory meats and vegetables. In Latin America they’re called crepas and are usually sweet desserts. Thailand has rice flour crepes. Israel makes non-dairy versions (parve). Head to America and you can find everything from traditional and gluten-free to frozen and ready-made. Every flavor and type are available, including hamburger, pizza, turkey and Swiss, and jalapeno popper crepes.
Any way you like it.
Savor your crepes for breakfast, lunch, or dinner. Be fancy or plain. Roll it, fold it, or eat it flat. Make it at home, buy it on the street, or be dazzled by a flaming Crêpe Suzette. Try an Italian crespelle with ricotta and marinara. Add a dab of Nutella, whipped cream, jam, or a scoop of ice cream to your dessert crepe.
Ooh la la!
